Etape du Tour 2011 Acte I
Due to Roy and me only planning on doing the Marmotte this year it turned into an unorganised Etape. If you were younger you would call it an adventure, as it was we were flying by the seats of our pants.
As we were so late getting organised we had no accommodation. We went to the large French Sports chain Decathlon to buy a tent; our hope was we would find somewhere to pitch it near the start line. In traditional Scottish style we decided a 2 man tent was too extravagant and went for the €30 single man option. It was only 1 night so how bad could it be?
We left our families on Sunday morning to drive the 2 hour trip to the start village at Modane.
On arrival we found registration was at the 2nd host village of Valfrejus a further 10km up the mountain. The only problem was it was too busy for cars and we had to use the provided shuttle buses. This would have been OK but we still had to get back to the finish at Alpe D’Huez to leave the car and get the shuttle bus back. The dual start village idea really took away the buzz from the normal host village.
Registration done and no money wasted in the start village (we had no time) we went to find the secure bike park facilities back in Modane. This proved trouble free though time was now beginning to creep against us. We headed back to Alpe D’Huez. One of the other down sides to this years route was there was no quick way from start to finish, you had to go over mountains. We drove over the Col du Glandon as this looked the quickest option. Marmotte memories came flooding back. Arriving in Alpe D’Huez we had no idea where to go for the buses and it was 4.55, the last bus was at 5pm.
After a frantic scrabble around the car parks at the summit (it’s a large ski resort so there are a few) we found the bus which of course wasn’t ready to leave until 5.30. 2 hours back to Modane and the start meant an 8pm arrival and we hadn’t even got a tent pitch yet!
The shuttle bus took the route back over Galibier and Telegraphe. As we had ridden it already we knew what to expect but there were murmurings of disquiet on the bus from others who hadn’t seen them before. Before the summit of the Col du Galibier there is a tunnel for cars and buses about 100m from the top due to the roads getting too steep. The tunnel is 500m long and as we entered it in bright sunshine we came out into total fog and cloud cover. Was the weather tomorrow for the Etape going to be more UK than French summer?
Arriving back in Modane at about 8.30pm we went to find the Etape pasta party to get some dinner. Fortunately it was still going and as we had walked towards it we had spotted half a dozen tents by the river. We now had food and accommodation sorted. Everything had somehow come together. I think due to having done the Marmotte the previous week and knowing the Etape was two-thirds the distance and covered the same route both Roy and I were fairly comfortable with the risk this year. If it had been a normal 100 mile Etape we might have been more concerned with our overall planning.
Well fed we went and pitched our tent. Fortunately it was a pop up one because just as we got done a massive storm started. We lay in the tent crammed with our kit as rain and lightening crashed around outside. This was scarier than doing the Etape!
After a staggered nights sleep we got up at 5.30am to a clear warmish morning. Using our flask of hot water we had brought we got some porridge made and then retrieved the bikes from the bike park. Shortly after 6am we headed to the start pens. Maybe camping near the start line wasn’t so bad after all as you know there will be people in hotels an hour away having to get up at 3-4am to make it on time.
We went to drop our bags off to get them transported to the finish line and passed the broom wagon on the way. I don’t really worry about it any more when doing the Etape but seeing it parked in front of you gave a wee reminder of what could go wrong.
After the long wait in the pens it was 7am and time to start. This year was staggered though to try to stop congestion on the Col du Telegraphe as had happened last year on the Soleur which worked well.
Once we started it was 15km down hill and as expected it was a fast start. It was tempting to really go for it but we settled to a sensible speed which was about 45km/hr anyway and kept some energy.
After a sharp left in a small village we saw the now familiar bridge at the start of the Telegraphe and knew it was time to start work. As it turned out it was an enjoyable climb. Due to being here early the sun wasn’t up high enough and you could cycle up in relative shade. Without the Col du Glandon already in your legs this time it was fairly easy to keep a sustained rhythm and pace. A look down over the cliff to your right though allowed you to see the road below where you started and proved a reminder of how high up you now where. Unfortunately it was still a long way to the top of Galibier.
After the brief 5km descent to Valloire which was far easier and faster on the closed roads it was time to start the big climb of the day, up to 2660m and the summit of the Col du Galibier.
Roy and I had already planned our feed stops which helped knowing the route already. We stopped at the first stop in Valloire and had sandwiches with us for the summit of Galibier. This would allow us to miss the official feed stop at La Grave which is on a descent and we wouldn’t really want to stop anyway at that point anyway.
Galibier again sucks you in as the first 2km are very gentle at about 4% gradient. We could already see a stream of riders though snaking their way up the 9% sections on the road above us to the right.
Over the stream and then our turn. Again I was keeping a good sustained pace though Roy started to pull away from me. I thought about trying to stay with him but still had 10km to the summit and knew and wouldn’t manage without taking a massive amount out myself.
By now it was also starting to get hot and was creeping in to mid 20’s. I knew there was a water fountain about 4km from the summit by a small café and had already decided I would stop and fill my bottles as we wouldn’t be going to the feed stop.
Even knowing what Galibier was like it was still relentless. There were also now the first people pushing their bikes already.
Finally I could see the summit though it’s still 2km to go. It doesn’t sound much but at that height and after 30km of climbing it’s a long way, and it’s steep.
I reached the summit and saw Roy waiting for me.
We both ate and got our photos taken again at the summit. We did a camera trade with 2 Americans who were cycling together. One was holding his bike above his head for the photo. We shared a joke hoping he would be doing the same at the top of Alpe d’Huez.
It was warmer today than last week at the top and didn’t require the gilet, only arm warmers for the descent. Shortly after the top rough section I had people shouting at me. My initial though was I was going too slow and should move over (this is why they normally shout at you) but my speed was fast! I then realised my saddle pack and gilet had fallen off my bike. I stopped to start cycling back up to get them. This seemed a relatively simple idea until you realise there are hundreds of cyclists coming towards you at 50-80km/hr.
Fortunately as I found to space to start moving Roy appeared with my stuff. Where my extra weight means it is difficult to stay with him up a hill it normally means I can leave him on a descent (I’m probably more stupid than him as well!). In this instance it saved me a lot of extra effort. The joys of having a cycling partner.
Once passed the Col de Lautaret then the descent really gets going. With wide closed roads brakes were hardly needed and it was an absolute blast. I went over a small bump in the road going round a bend. As I was holding a good line it wasn’t a problem. I checked my speed – 73km/hr, lucky it wasn’t a problem.
We kept going until it gets twisty again around La Grave and flew past the feed stop. We were now good into a good peloton, the road had flattened out some but with the group we were maintaining 60km/hr. I looked around but there was no sign of Roy. As much fun as it was I backed off to wait for him to catch up and said good bye to my fast train.
He soon appeared with another group who were going slightly slower (about 50km/hr) and we continued on.
We then entered the first of the tunnels. This is the longest one and worst lit. On the Marmotte we had been given small LED lights so you could be seen but not on the Etape. If you removed your sunglasses you could still see but this hadn’t been done by everyone. This still shouldn’t be a problem as the roads are closed so just keep going, unfortunately that didn’t happen and somebody braked! To screams of “Allez, Allez, Go faster, Don’t stop,” we started taking evasive action. Fortunately nobody crashed. As Roy and I still had our lights on from the Etape I decided to get to the front and go as fast as possible to stay out of trouble. At least people behind should see my lights.
This was to be the only drama in the tunnels as each time for all of the next ones I made sure to be at the front going into them. I have heard of other people having problems though due to braking and even people walking through them!
As we came to the end of the descent before turning into Le Freney-D’Oisans I saw the first ambulance of the day. It looked like somebody hadn’t made the sharp right hand turn and just gone straight ahead into the embankment. Later on during the day this section of road got closed to allow an air ambulance to land on the road and airlift somebody away. If this was it I’m not sure but the rumour is that person had gone over the edge of the ravine so it would have appeared to be in the wrong place.
We arrived at the final feed stop in Bourg d’Oisanns to fuel up for the final ascent on the Alpe D’Huez.
Having done the Alpe already I knew what to expect; 21 hairpin bends, all numbered and counting down to the top. I decided I would put in some extra effort for the steep first 2km and then settle into a pace for the rest of the 10km. I didn’t want to end up plodding in the opening section and set my pace on that.
The difference this time on the Alpe was the time of day. It was mid day and the temperature was into the low 30’s already. This seemed to make it seem harder than last time.
Roy and I started passing a lot of people going up the Alpe and there were a lot of people already walking. I managed to stay with Roy for about the first 5km but then he started to pull away. It didn’t take much thought this time to let him go, the heat was taking its’ toll.
Somewhere about 7km to go there were people with hoses spraying you with cold water on the way by which provided welcome relief.
I stopped at the 6km to go water stop. I had a full bottle of energy drink but just wanted water. I emptied the energy drink out and filled both bottles with water. One would do for drinking and the other for pouring on my head.
I kept a constant pace going (about 9-11km/hr) and continued to overtake a lot of people.
Finally with 3km to go you can see the village of Alpe D’Huez and the small remaining switch backs are clear in front of you. A family were at the side of the road pouring water over people and one had a bottle of ice he held against the back of your neck as you went past. A great relief and the support from people like this is what makes the Etape special.
Finally I was up through the village and turned right down towards the roundabout. On the Marmotte we had gone straight ahead here so I got in a big gear for a fast finish. Fast into the roundabout and then sent left, up a hill!! Oh well I had a lot of speed carried around the corner so I left it and the big ring and sprinted up the hill ( I suspect when I see this on the video it won’t look as impressive as it felt at the time).

Through the finish line in 6 hours 15minutes. I had hoped to just break 6 hours but I was feeling good, better than on any previous Etape so I’d accomplished what I had set out to do.
Another great day over and now for the first time I could enjoy the finish village and get a good meal.
Afterwards
Due to being parked at the top of the Alpe and the closed roads we were stuck here until 4.30pm when the roads opened again. The signal for this is the broom wagon arriving. It is fortunately the first time I have seen it in action. A convoy of trucks with bikes and coaches loaded with exhausted and dejected people appears. You really felt sorry for those in the coaches as you could see the anguish on their faces.
Once we got to drive back down again there were still quite a lot of people coming up the Alpe. All these riders will be classed as having not finished but for their own satisfaction had to make the finish line and not get in the broom wagon. Some were near the bottom of the mountain so would still have 2 hours to go at their current pace. 11 hours for 65 miles must be a horrendous day out.
So, Chapeau to all who finished including those who would be DNF but were still determined to get there.


















